A Gift from the Gods

This photograph was taken in Paradise Harbour from the Zodiac . We had just left our very brief landing on Duthiers Point, our one and only official contact with the continent. The Zodiac driver was running the motor full throttle to ferry us back as fast as humanly possible so the hundreds of others would have their chance while the weather held.

My body was bouncing up and down so hard that I thought my organs would disconnect. The probability of shooting anything seemed impossible. I had come thousands of miles to capture the majesty before me and now it seemed the moment would be lost. I kept the camera close to my eye and shot like a crazy anyway. Suddenly, we whipped right past one of those corrugated icebergs (my own unscientific handle for them). My finger must have been pushed by the pressure of all of the jostling: I thought I had missed it.

Every once in a while a free gift is thrown in with all of the trash. When I downloaded the day's catch, I was delighted to find my iceberg.

Oh No. Here Come the Humans Again

Antarctica Reunion Slideshow

Click on the link below to see a surprise. San Miguel Antarctica Reunion Party

Quick. Get the Penquin Police

Yes. It's true. The Expedition Staff have designated Penquin Police. They wear bright yellow vests (shown below) and shoo you away if you get too close to the penquins. Ultimate respect for the creatures in their habitats is strictly enforced. While many would just love to hug the darlings, no can do. And no, they are not available as pets or else the person pictured here would surely have brought one or three back to San Miguel.

Penquin Police Vests Raise Over $500 For Project
At the end of the trip two vests were auctioned off to the highest bidder. Each one brought over $250 for a special project being done in the Falkland Islands by Dr. Peter Carey, the ship's expedition leader.

Chinstrap Flirts With Camera

I think they know that you are taking their picture. Look at this. Shameless.

Frolicking Chinstraps on Half Moon Island

On December 22, we made a last landing at Half Moon Island leaving us with a lasting memory of playful Chinstrap penquins.

Entrance to the LeMaire Channel

The Bow of Discovery Pointing South
At approximately 7 pm on December 21 we reached south latitude, 65'04" about 1770 miles north of the South Pole. Ice blocked us from traveling through the LeMaire Channel whose mouth can be seen dead ahead.

Even though we could not enter the LeMaire Channel, the landscape leading up to its entrance was haunting. This was taken during the late afternoon of December 21, 2007.

The Trip Has Ended. Now the Editing Begins

Above: Four Gauchos at Rest. December 25, 2007
One of my favorite "human" photographs taken during our trip is this one shot behind the scenes at the ranch we visited outside of Buenos Aires on Christmas Day. The gauchos had finished their show of horsemanship and while we were being feted with an Argentine style barbecue and folkloric dancers, these guys were taking a well earned rest.

I returned home midday on December 27, just in time to get ready to ring in the New Year. After the initial round of "Welcome Home" greetings and a flurry of visits, things have quieted down. Now the mammoth task of sorting through thousands of images is in full swing. My goal is to produce an online story using Soundslides Plus and or Picasa.

As I edit images I will add at least one or more to the blog each day but in no particular order. The idea is just to keep the blog fresh and interesting for now until the project is more fully developed.

Good Air, Beautiful Sunshine

Buenos Aires. Good air...no, intoxicating air. The weather is glorious and makes it hard to think of leaving. Everyone is winding down and sitting around the pool. I sat on the terrace with Matt, my dear friend's son who lives here. We chatted and shared our present lives. I loved seeing him.

Folkloric Dancer Through A Window
The ranch was beautiful, about a 90 minute drive outside of town. There was a display of equestrian beauty and gaucho skill that was exciting to watch, a typical feast of Argentine steak and chicken, crafts and folkloric dancers.

The tango show told the story of the rise of the tango from the barrios to the present. We went to El Querandi, had tapas, a drink and watched the show. I would have enjoyed more seeing dancers on the streets but no time.

All in all a bountiful and rich Christmas Day The best gift of all was being in such lovely surroundings with one of my dearest friends from San Miguel.

What a perfect trip.

Back in Ushuaia

The Antarctica cruise has ended. Today we fly back to Buenos Aires. It will be Christmas Eve and everything will be closed. Tomorrow we have an all day visit to a ranchero where there will be a typical Argentine BBQ, folkloric dancing and other recreation. In the evening we will go to a Tango show.

We reached as far as 65´o4¨south latitude at about 7 pm on December 21. It was about 1770 miles north of the South Pole. Throughout the trip the weather was fine except for several days of fog. Unfortunately there was some ice blockage which prohibited going to some scheduled landings. My biggest disappointment was that we could not get through the Lemaire Channel. This stretch is said to be the most photogenic passage of the cruise.
Touching the Continent. Visiting Penquins.
More often than not, a first glimpse at any landing was viewed through the space between the heads of fellow travelers on the Zodiacs. Better this than no shot at all.

We were able to set foot upon the continent at Duthiers Point in Paradise Harbour where there was a colony of Chinstrap penquins. These creatures are as delighful as I imagined and more. Where the Zodiac touches shore they are there as the welcoming crew and sentinels. They seem to be as curious about us as we are them.

When I get home I will post more detailed entries and pictures. I found it difficult to do during the trip. There was just too much happening and the Internet connection was impossible.

For now it is time for one last look around this town, lunch onboard and the trip back to Buenos Aires. We probably won´t get there until very late since it is Christmas Eve. Our suitcases are not due to arrive until 10 tonight.

Will try to post from Buenos Aires.

Approaching Half Moon Island

Yesterday was the Solstice. Since we are in the Southern Hemisphere, down here it is the Summer Solstice. We had no nightime at all. We got south to Lemaire Channel but it was too icy to cruise through so that was the southernmost point of our journey. I will get the time, longitude and latitude later.

Right now (it is 8:14 am ) we have just entered the bay where we will embark on the Zodiac to land on the island. There are windows here in the Internet center on the ship and I just looked out. Once again I see another breathtaking vista of beauty. When that happens, spirit calls and I must leave to go look and photograph. More later.

Died and Went to Heaven

Got past the fog sometime in the middle of the night. Woke up to the most glorious clear weather. Scheduled for today was a landing for Paradise Harbor but there was too much ice to attempt it so Plan B went into effect. We would be able to have a Zodiac run to a point of land for a few minutes...just so we can at least say that we stepped ashore on the continent.

All of us aboard know that there is no way, no language, no picture that can convey to anyone who has not visited here this awesome beauty. This place has the most clear air, the most astonishing light and brilliant color. To be sitting in a small Zodiac in the midst of the Antarctic Sound surrounded by cloud covered giant glaciers and smaller ones with the most fantastic shapes, often with hollowed out areas lined with blue and turquoise ice...how can one recreate that experience?

Just now the Captain announced that we are on the way to the Lamaire Channel. This is the one I have waited for. It is nicknamed "Kodak Alley" for it photogenic beauty. There is some concern that it may be too icy to get through. As Peter Carey, our expedition leader, said: "Keep your fingers crossed." You out there reading this,,,keep your fingers crossed too.

In the Summer it never gets dark here so it is strange to be staring out the picture windows at midnight with the skies still light. As far as I know, we all could have died and are doomed to be floating through the most gorgeous vistas in the world for eternity. We won't know that we haven't until we return to civilization...or UNcivilization. Oh and photographs are beginning to be better. Can't wait to get some posted.