Good Air, Beautiful Sunshine

Buenos Aires. Good air...no, intoxicating air. The weather is glorious and makes it hard to think of leaving. Everyone is winding down and sitting around the pool. I sat on the terrace with Matt, my dear friend's son who lives here. We chatted and shared our present lives. I loved seeing him.

Folkloric Dancer Through A Window
The ranch was beautiful, about a 90 minute drive outside of town. There was a display of equestrian beauty and gaucho skill that was exciting to watch, a typical feast of Argentine steak and chicken, crafts and folkloric dancers.

The tango show told the story of the rise of the tango from the barrios to the present. We went to El Querandi, had tapas, a drink and watched the show. I would have enjoyed more seeing dancers on the streets but no time.

All in all a bountiful and rich Christmas Day The best gift of all was being in such lovely surroundings with one of my dearest friends from San Miguel.

What a perfect trip.

Back in Ushuaia

The Antarctica cruise has ended. Today we fly back to Buenos Aires. It will be Christmas Eve and everything will be closed. Tomorrow we have an all day visit to a ranchero where there will be a typical Argentine BBQ, folkloric dancing and other recreation. In the evening we will go to a Tango show.

We reached as far as 65´o4¨south latitude at about 7 pm on December 21. It was about 1770 miles north of the South Pole. Throughout the trip the weather was fine except for several days of fog. Unfortunately there was some ice blockage which prohibited going to some scheduled landings. My biggest disappointment was that we could not get through the Lemaire Channel. This stretch is said to be the most photogenic passage of the cruise.
Touching the Continent. Visiting Penquins.
More often than not, a first glimpse at any landing was viewed through the space between the heads of fellow travelers on the Zodiacs. Better this than no shot at all.

We were able to set foot upon the continent at Duthiers Point in Paradise Harbour where there was a colony of Chinstrap penquins. These creatures are as delighful as I imagined and more. Where the Zodiac touches shore they are there as the welcoming crew and sentinels. They seem to be as curious about us as we are them.

When I get home I will post more detailed entries and pictures. I found it difficult to do during the trip. There was just too much happening and the Internet connection was impossible.

For now it is time for one last look around this town, lunch onboard and the trip back to Buenos Aires. We probably won´t get there until very late since it is Christmas Eve. Our suitcases are not due to arrive until 10 tonight.

Will try to post from Buenos Aires.

Approaching Half Moon Island

Yesterday was the Solstice. Since we are in the Southern Hemisphere, down here it is the Summer Solstice. We had no nightime at all. We got south to Lemaire Channel but it was too icy to cruise through so that was the southernmost point of our journey. I will get the time, longitude and latitude later.

Right now (it is 8:14 am ) we have just entered the bay where we will embark on the Zodiac to land on the island. There are windows here in the Internet center on the ship and I just looked out. Once again I see another breathtaking vista of beauty. When that happens, spirit calls and I must leave to go look and photograph. More later.

Died and Went to Heaven

Got past the fog sometime in the middle of the night. Woke up to the most glorious clear weather. Scheduled for today was a landing for Paradise Harbor but there was too much ice to attempt it so Plan B went into effect. We would be able to have a Zodiac run to a point of land for a few minutes...just so we can at least say that we stepped ashore on the continent.

All of us aboard know that there is no way, no language, no picture that can convey to anyone who has not visited here this awesome beauty. This place has the most clear air, the most astonishing light and brilliant color. To be sitting in a small Zodiac in the midst of the Antarctic Sound surrounded by cloud covered giant glaciers and smaller ones with the most fantastic shapes, often with hollowed out areas lined with blue and turquoise ice...how can one recreate that experience?

Just now the Captain announced that we are on the way to the Lamaire Channel. This is the one I have waited for. It is nicknamed "Kodak Alley" for it photogenic beauty. There is some concern that it may be too icy to get through. As Peter Carey, our expedition leader, said: "Keep your fingers crossed." You out there reading this,,,keep your fingers crossed too.

In the Summer it never gets dark here so it is strange to be staring out the picture windows at midnight with the skies still light. As far as I know, we all could have died and are doomed to be floating through the most gorgeous vistas in the world for eternity. We won't know that we haven't until we return to civilization...or UNcivilization. Oh and photographs are beginning to be better. Can't wait to get some posted.

Shrouded in Fog

We were told that at 7 am today we would be approaching the Antarctic Peninsula. Up to now we have been crusing through the Shetland Islands. I set my alarm for 6 am to get ready. I quickly went to one of the levels so I could go outside but all I could see is fog. The air is fresh and not too cold...considering. There is light spray over the bow.

Some annoucement was just made but did not hear it so I will check it out now. On board there are exceptional educational presentations, each specializing on some aspect of Antarctica. Some of the topics have been: Shackleton's expeditions, penquins, glaciers, climate change, seals. Today there will be a special presentation about artists and Antarctica. These programs are broadcast live to the cabin or taped for later viewing.

Another announcement. Will go to hear it. More later.

Surrounded by Spectacle

Antarctica is a humbling, thrilling experience. It seems not strange at all to be cruising through these waters. We have had beautiful weather allowing me to go on deck with the same clothes I would wear at home. Most important part of my wardrobe is my camera. Today I barely had time to eat breakfast or lunch because gorgeous ice formations would suddenly appear outside the windows or our expedition leader would announce a sighting of penquins sitting on icebergs. It is all simply stunning and surreal.

Penguins on the Rocks
Yesterday we went on our second Zodiac expedition. This is quite an ordeal but highly organized and we move through it smoothly with a passenger count near 500. Each boat holds from ten to twelve and we are well taken care of.

We went to Arctowski Station, a Polish reseach base. The landing and path were nothing but huge pebbles and very tough to maneuver. I tried to mimic the way penquins waddle but in the end a kind and strong German couple each took one arm and pulled me through it. I call it assisted walking. At the end of it, I saw two huge elephant seals snoring away, Nearby was a Gentoo penquin rookery. The penquins are as adorable in person as in the movies.

Pictures are coming along-finally. I am having a hard time finding a way to post them but will before the end of the trip. For those following from Baltimore and San Miguel, everyone is having an extraordinary time and all are in good hands.

Hopefully more tomorrow or the next day. We have two more landings scheduled. Comments are welcome which you can insert below.

Crossing The Drake Passage Now

For those following this blog, we are crossing the Drake Passage right now. Good luck: it is fairly calm and I am not seasick. Using pressure bracelets and Bonine.

We departed from Ushaia last night at 7 pm. Ushaia was a lovely surprise remeniscent of a Swiss ski village. Toured Tierra del Fuego National Park...beautiful mountains.

Buenos Aires
Saw the "don't blink your eyes" tour of Buenos Aires. Everything is happening at warp speed but now there should be some sane time.

At least one or two good pictures which I will post as soon as I get used to this onboard system. Very expensive to buy Internet time. More later. Just wanted to break the silence.

Ready to Go

At long last. The only thing left to do is to stuff last minute make-up, meds, and toiletries wherever. The shuttle will pick me up at noon tomorrow. Hopefully there is a good Internet connection on the ship so I can continue to post.

Packing

8:29 am Should I do A.M. Yoga? Have coffee? Carry the selected clothes downstairs to the suitcase? Or procrastinate for yet another hour of indecisiveness?

We need at least one sporty and one dressy outfit for hot summer weather in Buenos Aires, sporty and casual chic outfits for life aboard the cruise ship, and the big kahuna--the whole array of base, insulating and outer layers for expeditions. What's a girl to do? Frankly, I could live without the dressy stuff this time around.

8:39 am Coffee trumps all for the moment. More later as I progress through this day.

12:39 pm Stuff piled all over the place. Goal: to have clothes and sundries packed by 3:00 pm so I can start packing photo gear.

3:43 pm Did not make the 3:00 pm deadline but have moved things up and down stairs. Paring it down.

Midnite I'll think about it tomorrow...

Getting the Boot

What to wear? This is a matter of survival...that is if one wants to get off the ship for shore excursions in one of the small, rubber zodiac boats. At landing sites, there are no docks. no piers...just freezing cold water to step into. Could be up to one's knees they tell us. I read that after four minutes if you fall into the brink, hypothermia begins to set in.

It's obvious that boots are very important. Our cruise line suggests non-insulated, waterproof, rubber, fourteen inch high boots worn over heavy insulated boot socks layered over a lightweight liner sock. I finally found mine at REI but not until after I had already taken home a pair of russett-colored, moose-patterned wellies from L.L. Bean.

Several nights later, I got to thinking about those moose. The occasion seemed to call for something a bit more dignified. So online I went and found the perfect pair...and at half the price to boot. (Intended)

Tonight in our twenty degree weather after yesterday's mini snowstorm, I gave them a trial run or, more accurately, a trial stroll. They felt just fine-a little klunky-but with some practice I'll, hopefully, be able to waddle over the ice and snow like a penquin. Just to be sure, I got a pair of YakTrax, ice grabbers that strap onto the boot. To the left you can see a portrait of boots at rest sans YakTrax.

Preparing for Antarctica

Would I? Could I... go to Antarctica? It was such a rare opportunity. As I poked about the website of Voyages of Discovery, the cruise line, I discovered a "no single supplement" promotion. In the blink of an eye, the trip became feasible. Aided by a little encouragement from family and friends, I signed on. Shortly after, my friend in San Miguel, who was the one who introduced me to the idea, found the means to go. Suddenly we both went from not going to going and with our own private cabins to boot.

As a photographer, understanding how to prepare to shoot in such a harsh place has been a trip all its own. My research has taken me far and wide all over the net and led me to two not to be missed photographic artists: Sebastian Copeland and John Paul Caponigro.

Copeland's recently released, Antarctica, The Global Warning is breathtaking. Make sure your sound is on when you look at his photographs: this experience presents itself like a prayer.

Caponigro's work is pure poetry. The ethereal beauty of his images is what inspired me to go in the first place. His gallery is in Adobe Acrobat format so be patient for the download. He has two sets of photographs from 2007 here and from 2005 here.

Having never been an outdoor adventurer and starting down that path well beyond "spring chickenhood," getting ready for this expedition has been a full time job. In planning to meet its challenges, required a serious change in eating habits and exercise. Through the wonderful support of the University of Maryland Athletic Center, I signed on for Weight Watchers and Yoga classes. I needed to build confidence and balance to be able to get on and off the Zodiac boats used to make landings and short cruises away from the ship. As of today, I am less than half a pound away from a fifteen pound weight loss and my Yoga instructor says that I have improved a lot this semester. (Thanks Lauren)

I also needed to make sure my photographic gear and understanding of the environment would be up to the task, and most importantly, I needed to have the right clothing for the harsh conditions of the White Continent.

For the moment, barring any unforeseen events, everything is now in place for departure next week. Tomorrow I begin to pack...

What's Happened Since 2005

The last time I posted here was back in 2005. Since that time I retired from Annapolis High School as a Library/Media Specialist. I immediately headed for an extended stay in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico whichs lasted from September, 2006 to mid-January, 2007. While there I photographed Mexican street life, fiestas, other celebratory moments as well as theatrical and community events.

It is nearly impossible to stay in SMA for any length of time without being swept away by the charm and warmth of the place and the people. I think that considering the possibility of living a life there and looking at real estate are the number one tourist activities. So far I am still thinking about it...maybe on a part-time basis.

Since my return to Baltimore last January, I have been traveling making the rounds of photographic eventst: Photoshop World in Boston last April; the first ever Festival of the Photograph in Charlottesville, Virginia in June; a week-long workshop in July in Oaxaca, Mexico taught by Raul Touzon and organized by the Santa Fe Workshop and after that another visit to San Miguel in August. Back in the U.S. I attended a day-long workshop on Adobe Lightroom with Scott Kelby in Washington, D.C. in September and finally the On the Road seminar produced by PDN and Santa Fe Workshops in Chicago at the end of October.

ANTARCTICA? You've Got to be kidding. However, all of the above were only the tip of the iceberg for what was about to emerge. On my last trip to San Miguel in August, I stayed at the home of a dear, dear friend whose dream has been to travel to several key spots among them the Galapagos Islands and Antarctica.

When she handed me a flyer about a trip to Antarctica with Christmas in Buenos Aires, I simply took a quick glance at it. It did fill my mind's eye, however, with haunting Antarctica images presented by John Paul Caponigro at Photoshop World. And I did feel a small twinge of envy at the idea of missing out on such a grand adventure.

Then right before I left for home, I noticed that a presentation about the trip was scheduled at the Biblioteca . I must admit that Judy and Jim Newell, tour organizers, through their company, Perfect Journeys, spun a magic web. They served delicious hors d'oeuvres and wine while we heard about the wonders of the journey. The fire was lit. I turned to my friend and said, " I'll go." We signed preliminary forms and left for my farewell dinner.

The next morning, we discussed reality. She wasn't sure she could manage it and that would leave me looking for a cabinmate. And that is where it stood as I left for Baltimore.